We always celebrate birthdays in our house, sometimes extending the celebration over days or even a week. Small pleasures have replaced expensive gifts. A day at the beach or in the mountains, an enjoyable meal out. Time to read books or do jigsaws, and eat chocolate or treats — anything that breaks up our normal routine.
Steve’s birthday is extra special because it marks the start of the Christmas season. We wait to decorate the house, buy presents, or shop for Christmas food until after celebrating his birthday. The anticipation makes up for the miserable weather, which is almost inevitable.
When we set out not a glimpse of sunshine brightened the day. Rain bounced off the lane as we walked to the car and I was already cold by the time the heater kicked and dried our clothes. Had it not been a birthday treat we might well have changed our minds.
The friend who recommended the restaurants raved about the spectacular views as well as the food. We set out early, planning to stop in Samos for a coffee on the way.
Samos is a pretty village with a giant monastery. It is on the Camino de Santiago and summer it buzzes with people. The tables from bars and cafes line the narrow streets. Today, on a cold wet winter morning, it was deserted and the cafes on the main road were shut up tight.

On a better day, we would have stopped and walked along the river path, admiring the Monastery gardens and the stone cottages set against the browns and golds stretching up the sides of the narrow valley to the mountains beyond. The rain bouncing off the car bonnet and the whirr of the wipers fighting the constant downpour encouraged us to drive on through.
Once past the village, we turned right, steadily climbing into the mist. The rain slackened, but as it did, the cloud descended. The road was surprisingly good many roads here are single track, and covered with-rain filled dips and hollows. This was wide and smooth and completely deserted. The occasional house came into view, but in the mist there was nothing to see but trees or the gorse bushes that line the moors.
The photos don’t do justice to the strange shadowy shapes looming out of the mist or the deadness of the sound as we wound upwards.

We came upon the restaurant suddenly, positioned on a roundabout in the middle of nowhere. Steve slowed the car.
“We are early,” he said “The table is booked for half past, but the the dining room won’t be open yet.”
There were cars, the first we had seen since Samos, so we could have had a drink and waited in the bar.

The sky had cleared, or maybe we were now above the cloud. I wanted to see where we were and get a sense of what the area was like. I had felt rather than seen the magnificence of the scenery around us and wondered why we had never ventured here before now.
The mountains rolled on, the colours only getting more and more impressive. The mist cleared enough for us to see the winding road ahead twisting and turning into another valley.

We turned around about halfway down and returned up the steep slope to the restaurant. The parking area was already full, so we took the last space and went inside. A stone by the roadside told us we were 1100 meters above sea level. And I wished once again that we could see the view.
It was the kind of place that travel writers or video makers love. A cosy bar with a fire, and a group of men playing cards round a table in one corner. The man at the bar showed us the dining room at the back. Another fireplace dominated the room with a large open grill beside it. The walls were stone, and the dark wooden tables packed closely together. Was the same colour as the beams that stretched across the ceiling. The waitress, who we later found out was the owner, led us to a table by the radiator. I was grateful for the cold air, and driving rain outside. I faced the grill but was too far away to feel its heat.

Only one other table was occupied, but that changed quickly; by the time our starters arrived, every table was taken. I was the only woman other than the waitress. Not that unusual here and often a sign that the meat is good and the portions generous. I wondered where they all came from we had just driven eight kilometres from Samos and five or six in the other direction and not seen a soul. The choice of main course was small: grilled meat, grilled steak, or grilled sausage. Today the sausage was homemade chorizo. We had gullas, (imitation baby eels real ones are way out of our price range) and mushrooms with Serrano ham to start, grilled meat with salad and chips for the main. The meat and chorizo kept coming until we said stop.
The grill was full of meat and sausages, and the owner walked round the tables with the meat on a huge wooden board, heating onto plates.
It was impeccable. The best chorizo I have ever tasted is so good that they announce on social media when the new season’s chorizo is ready. The meat is local and seasoned to perfection. Everyone in the room had the same. The bread was local and warm, and our bread basket was never empty.
The desserts were homemade and looked amazing, but there was no way I could eat one, however good they looked.
I would recommend a visit, for the ambience and the food. The Facebook page is Casa Aira Padron
The weather cleared on the way home, much to my relief as I had taken over the drive. The colours of the autumn leaves sparkled like Christmas ornaments, and I daydreamed about coming back one day and spending a night parked in a lay-by, spending the evening watching the scenery as dusk fell. I have these flights of fancy from time to time.
I didn’t think about my story once, and, as always, the break from writing refreshed me.
There is a balance I find when I am in the middle of writing a new book. A day away is good; three days away is a disaster, and the story begins to unravel in my head. I guess it’s different for everyone. What do you think?
































